I bought my lens in mint condition for $350 from Japan, but I see that some retailers are asking significantly more. For those of you that like to pixel-peep, have a look at the single image frame captured using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. To remedy this, I reduced the star size in post, and I started shooting at F/4 to really tighten things up. Canon CR-N700 4K PTZ Camera with 15x Zoom. Still, what a time to be an enthusiast/photog, so many nice options. The reason the 135mm lens was that it was the longest lens that would focus with a Leica rangefinder. Now, I have to admit that up to this point, it sounds a little too good to be true. Backwards compatible (film). This brings me to my question. To me it is a dead spot between 85 and 200. This seems to be the norm for telephotos. But do some experimenting before you decide. It focuses within a blink of an eye, instantly. It's terrible. They're heavy, and expensive, but you can carry one lens instead of three, and can vary the compression and field of view to a significant degree - from nearly normal, to long portrait focal lengths. Smooth but contrasty. Rokinon 135mm F/2 Lens for ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY. Build quality: excellent. When I got home and loaded the photo into Lightroom I was blown away by two things. Literally it means "blur" so you could just as well use the dictionary definition below the top match from Google search: Bokeh - the visual quality of the out-of-focus areas of a photographic image, especially as rendered by a particular lens. http://www.idyll.com/laney2014 In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting sports and action, and recommended the best. Yes, each can produce different results (And that's why I keep and use several different lenses), but my point is that sharpness or bokeh are not the only factors for portraits -- sometimes it just comes down to convenience or price! I enjoied the use of this lens many years before the DSLR. There is some controversy about the use of UV filters, but I found that a good UV filter significantly improves contrast, sharpens small star images, and reduces chromatic aberration. http://www.radiantlite.com/2009/01/canon-135mm-f2l-usm-mini-review.html I put quotes around the ones that are written on the lens. I just got the Samyang version of this lens and used it with my Canon 3ti on a Skywatcher Star Adventurer. Theres no image stabilization on the Rokinon 135mm F/2 either, but thats a non-issue for amateur astrophotographers. The spec sheet for the Rokinon 135mm F/2 boasts a number of qualities, with the ones listed below being the most important when it comes to night photography and astro. A specialist lens, at best, though I did enjoy the cat image. i too use the 135mm nikkor[ with a MB speed booster on fuji x for outstanding separation], also a samyang 85 mm 1.4 nikon mt with speedbooster also gives excellent separation, yes, I think I have read that the old Nikkor 135mm f3.5 was even sharper than the f2.8. Not too heavy. These lenses can be had on eBay in mint condition for around $70, and are probably the most price efficient optical instrument in the world. Large hood. But I would argue that a 135mm F2 lens produces even greater bokeh, thanks to the long focal length that compresses the background far more than the 85mm lens. Images that sing. The lens has 14 stops when turning the aperture. Prime lenses are typically lighter as they do not need the additional glass and mechanics required to zoom at varying magnifications. Just plain black plastic (no interior felt as in newer lens hoods). The cat is a case for the bit bucket i my opinion - it has no composition, a distracting background and a random parts of the body in focus - the same picture made with a smart phone could not look worse. With weather sealing this would be a 10. I speak Japanese fluently, was a translator in Tokyo for 8 years and studied photography there for two years. As it is it is earns a 9. The lens is not weather-sealed, so you definitely dont want to leave your camera and lens (and your tracking mount!) Selecting between it and the 200mm Takumar was not an easy choice but, in the end, I chose the Takumar because it seemed to have slightly better contrast. f/2! The interest of a f/1.4 is to be able to be perfect at f/2.8, while a f/1.8 or f/2 might need to be on f/4 to have the same sharpeness and overall IQ.They are not meant to be used wide open, except in rare moments. A quick question, I have a Sony a6300 mirrorless camera which is great but the sensor is very close behind the mount. Sure, the Nifty 50 is an incredible value (and a LOT cheaper), but the 135mm puts you within range of some of the best astrophotography targets in the night sky. They seem to be really good for NB work. I know taste is subjective, but it seems to me that some people have become obsessed with blur and bokeh. The lenses I selected are all affordable prime lenses, easily available on the second-hand market, and adaptable to the EOS system. I shoot dozens of weddings every year but the 135mm stayed in my bag a majority of the time; I just didn't find myself needing to use it. The Sadr Region in Cygnus, including the Crescent Nebula by Eric Cauble. Mr Ericsson makes a very good point, and to go and dig irrelevant background info on him to discredit him is just well THAT is trolling. However, for $15 I also bought an old Tamron Adaptall 2, 135 mm f2.5. The Andromeda Galaxy using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC lens. Best lenses for astrophotography: 50, 85 and 135mm - DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging - Cloudy Nights Cloudy Nights Astrophotography and Sketching DSLR, Mirrorless & General-Purpose Digital Camera DSO Imaging CNers have asked about a donation box for Cloudy Nights over the years, so here you go. The main problem with the old lenses is spherical aberration and colour error, especially pronounced on digital sensors. Meanwhile the ol' Canon 135/2 is still commanding a higher than average price on the used market (70%+ of MSRP isn't common), I guess the low weight and super easy resale have almost made it a high end commodity. Let's the games begin! Based on my handful of experiences with this lens in the backyard, I have found these traits to hold true. The 70-200L being a much more useful lens. I also tested 200 f/2.8 tele and it is one of the most perfect lens in existence, as well as the 135. As you'd expect from a premium prime lens, both maximum and average chromatic aberration is very low across the aperture range, with the maximum CA on the order of 0.02% of frame height regardless of aperture. Otherwise this lens is absolutely incredible. don't get me wrong; this lens will take great photos, but the 'flatness' i was getting in my photos nearly had me give up 25 years of hobby photography. The F/2.0 maximum aperture of the Rokinon 135mm lens offers a chance to collect a serious amount of signal in a single shot. Large focus ring. etc.. Ron. The inset picture is a magnified view of the bottom right corner of the frame. In the right hands this lens really does have "magic pixie dust", as a friend once described. Photos posted are pleasing but I'd be into seeing something new. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. The second best, is the Hoya Pro One Digital MC UV(0) filter. We revisit a classic DPReviewTV episode in which Chris Niccolls and Jordan Drake shoot a few rolls of Fujifilm's Acros 100 II, and a few frames on the X-T3 in Acros film simulation, to find out. This criticism refers to rare cases when your main subject matter is flat and completely inside the limited DOF range while the rest of the image is outside. My only complaint about this lens is that the depth of the lens shade forces me to remove the shade in order to remove or replace the lens cap (my hands are fairly large). Another lens to consider at this focal length (at maximum zoom) is the Rokinon 135mm F/2. Film Friday: DPRTV reviews Fujifilm's Acros II film, Fujifilm launches Instax Mini 12 instant camera, DPReview March Madness, vote for your champions, Canon RF 16mm F2.8 STM sample gallery (DPReview TV), OM System M. Zuiko 90mm F3.5 Macro sample gallery, Live from Japan: Highlights from CP+ 2023, Retro Review: 24 years later, the Sony F505 is still pretty cool, Hands on with the OM System M. 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The shallow depth of field present at its maximum aperture does indeed create a pleasing bokeh. However, stepping outside to polar align a small star tracker and attach a DSLR and lens is quick and painless. It is NOT extremely sharp wide open, it often requires massive AF adjustment on DLSRs (sometimes beyond what the body allows as micro-adjustment) and AF is not reliable enough to consistently ensure sharp focus at full aperture. It must not be confused with the much cheaper SMC Takumar, often deceptively advertised as SMC Pentax Takumar, which has the M42 camera thread, and is plagued with unextinguishable blue chromatic aberration. The Japanese word "bokeh" can be translated into English as "blur". http://www.flickr.com/photos/tbrigham/314771597/ First of all, the background separation and the bokeh: I had photographed lots of animals in bushes before, but never before had I seen the bush melt away in the way it did with the 135mm lens. D8XX cameras, subject isolation and quality of bokeh.Zoom lenses can not hold a candle to such primes. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. It could really use an update to its coatings. I got mine for $60.00 on Craigslist but seen them on eBay for $100 and less all the time. Super Sharp.Super Fast AF. Most of these APOs have F ratios around 6.5, and are unable to comprehend in their field of view large celestial objects such as the Andromeda galaxy, the North America nebula, and comets. There are quite a few other excellent lenses out there, and nowadays, quite a few that can be used wide open. The lenses I listed are certainly not the ONLY exceptional lenses made over the years. I was blown away when I loaded the photos into my computer. In fact, in my test shots, I noticed that the red channel was a little softer than green and blue. Why take a step back from 250 to sit between the RedCat and the 24-105? IS would also help outside with wind. Built quality is wonderful, focus ring is well-damped. An h-alpha filter would still be useful for your D500, but much more so if it were modified! Because it manage to do so. In this review, however, I am using the lens on a crop sensor (APS-C) Canon EOS 60Da, which puts the field of view at 12.4 degrees. The Precious - sharp images, fast focus, perfect weight, reference-quality build. Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8. I have found myself shooting wide open almost all the time. here are some links to some pics taken with the lens: Samyang 135 f/2 astrophotography gallery Below some pictures I made using Samyang 135 lens with QHY163 mono camera and iOptron Smart EQ Pro mount. Whereas quality apochromats can be corrected with broad band filters, such as the Astronomik UV/IR cut filter or the CLS-CCD filter, telephoto lenses can not. I am telling them - don't! This lens has the Pentax K bayonet mount, and requires the K-EOS adapter for attachment to Canon EOS cameras. ", I'd no problem with that. @juksu - you're such a liar. I use it to photograph highschool basketball in poor light. There are times that making no comment at all is far more telling than posting negative - and sometimes offensive - ad hominem attacks on the author for daring to show some enthusiasm. The lens came in a handsome box, with core specifications and a lens construction diagram printed on the side. Testing on an EOS-5D, we see that it's sharpness is almost as good wide open in the corners as on the EOS-20D with its smaller sensor. For the rest there is Sigma 135 /1.8 Art also fantastic value lens. As in all arts the client's likes influence the result up to a point. Several days ago another member posted a stunning telephoto image of the Snake Nebula, Barnard 72, taken with a Canon lens which costs $12,000. Just not useful if you already have traditional focal lengths. I understand the optical design is quite old. I'm not a fan of the large hood. Chromatic aberration is almost eliminated in narrowband, so lenses with that problem may be fine performers. I find neither the cat nor the duck particularly good. IS is useful in my f/4 zooms but I don't need it to hand-hold this lens. The full name of this lens is the Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC, with "ED" standing for extra-low dispersion, and UMC referring to the "ultra multi-coated" optics. The best 200mm lens is precisely the older 200mm F4 SMC Takumar, which comes with the M42 camera thread, and requires the M42-EOS adapter. I have a vintage Nikon135mm f/2.8 AI-s which produces virtually the same bokeh and weighs a quarter of this or any other 135mm AF lens. Far from being a generic run-of-the-mill image hosting website, it was created and is still operated by an astrophotographer, and boasts features that are very specific to astrophotography. Juksu, your point is well taken. The Samyang 135mm f/2 lens is very wide in astrophotography terms. Yuri toropin tests a bunch of lenses on Flickr which is a great source. Other times, like the Witch Head Nebula, I love seeing the star responsible for the object in all its glaring glory! If you have pictures taken using the Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens, please feel free to share your results in the comments section (links to Astrobin, Flickr or your personal gallery are fine). Not only does it let you travel light, but impressive wide field projects are often more successful when captured under a dark sky. Flip on through what we found, and see how the lens performs in the real world in our sample gallery. I rarely shoot static landscapes or posed, composed images. I do know, however, that I can take an equally framed photo I've shot with my Canon kit lens, both zoomed to 100% I run circles around this guy. modest cost for "L" series, wonderful optics and fast speed, nitpicking, but not a circular aperature and no weather sealing. OM System's latest lens is a whopper of a macro, featuring optical stabilization, full weather sealing, up to 2x magnification and a whole lot more. Nice article for beginners.It's all in the eyes of the beholder. Another thing that makes people go "wow" over the 135mm F2 lens design is the bokeh, which can be so creamy that distant backgrounds almost render as gradients. Lior, I have done a lot of reading on modern zoom lenses. I thought I had to sell my 100/F2.8 macro L but thanks for letting me know I can keep it. I've missed shots at wide apertures because the DOF is so extremely thin. I disagree. The 135 is lighter, but that's its only advantage. Yeah I agree that the sentiment that they were designed to be used stopped down is wrong as they were designed to be used wide open because they had to be for speed (my point above). Whos Afraid of a Phantom: Istar Phantom 140mm F/6.5, that is? Perhaps I missed it, but did you use a clip-in light pollution filter with your 60D and this lens? I would never shell out hundreds of euros for a 135 prime let alone one with manual focus. This leaves you with a buttery bokeh and an object in perfect focus. My tests on it are described on http://pikespeakphoto.com/tests/canonlens135.html, i have never been a prime lens fan, just seems to leave you feeling trapped in a single dimension. How well do Fujifilm's film simulations match up to their film counterparts? The Image Sensor Frame tool lets you enter in the size of your camera sensor, and focal length of your lens (or telescope) to display a frame over the star map. Thus the enthusiasm has a valid basis but may not be suitable for all shooting conditions. It seems they are now quite comparable in quality to prime lenses. You won't get the excessive background blurr -- which for the beginning photographer may actually be a good thing. It's a trade off. I have just acquired my astrophotography set up thanks to all your videos and doing some research. Bye Fit and finish are first-rate as well, with very smooth manual focus operation, and very fast autofocus on the camera. I took a few shots with the lens on my way home after buying it. (Dpreview), Use the 500 Rule to find the Perfect Exposure Length for Astrophotography, Use a DSLR Ha Filter for Astrophotography, AstroBackyard | Astrophotography Tips and Tutorials2023, Optical Construction: 11 Glass elements in 7 Groups. "If you are a Nikon user, of course have a look at the Nikon AF Nikkor 135mm f/2D DC and compare it to the other lenses mentioned in this article. One of Canon's best lenses for a reasonable price. Pentax seems to have put more emphasis than others on keeping the resolution uniform all over the field. Unfortunately I haven't more the Canon lens. f/2, fast-accurate-silent focus, (relatively) small & light, super sharp!! Most small refracting telescopes start in the 300 to 400 mm focal length range, and even these are classed as widefield telescopes. It can isolate subject while being tack sharp with beautiful creamy bokeh when used at f2. If 135mm f2 works for you, then fine. At f/32, it's pretty soft, but less so than a lot of lenses at that aperture. When i check a F stop chart, i see 15 stops if i count the main, and the secondary ones: 2, 2.4, 2.8, 3.3, 4, 4.8, 5.6, 6.7, 8, 9.5, 11, 13, 16, 19, 22. I want to see the bokeh and the sharpness at 100% mag, don't care about the photos. Aperture ring. I do not use burst mode, but the lens would produce movie-like frames. The Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC lens. This article was originally published on Micael's blog, and is being republished in full with express permission. Crazy fast AF! It turns out that this. sigh, overdone bokeh and centre sharpness bear little relevance to the art of this hobby. Ive been using kit lenses for the past year, favoring the Nikkor 50mm 2.8. Great lens, but I can't understand why Canon can't control quality. The 135mm f/2.0 ED UMC Lens from Samyang is a manual focus telephoto prime lens useful for portraiture and most telephoto applications. Or is there a use case for fitting the Samyang 135mm to a Panasonic gx85 (or Panasonic gh5) ?? Thanks.. I really like how they augment my longer focal length scopes. That is why when SLRs came along the 200mm became the big seller and the 135 was largely forgotten. Recently, the FAA announced that recreational drone pilots in the USA can request LAANC authorization to fly in controlled airspace at night. A single, 90-second exposure using the Rokinon 135mm F/2.0 ED UMC at F/4. Shoot shiny metal at a wide aperture and you'll see some very extreme purple fringing. 85 Is a different story, my 85 gets used a lot. And as this article clearly shows, no amount of blurr will make a poorly composed photo good. This lens has the Pentax K bayonet mount, and requires the K-EOS adapter for attachment to Canon EOS cameras. Sharp without being harsh. Lens hood - when I bought this lens years ago the included hood was rather cheap (perhaps Canon has updated the hood) by comparison with other hoods. My canon is clear modded and I use a an Astronomik EOS-clip L filter to block the uv and ir. (purchased for $900), reviewed November 2nd, 2015 And you can even crop a 135 efl with today's sensors should you actually need it. Also, when used as recommended, and properly guided at full camera resolution, they are all comparable to a field-corrected APO, producing perfect images from edge to edge which can be easily cropped 25% with no evidence of aberrations. We case our eye over the options costing more than $2500 but less than $4000, to find the best all-rounder. There's literally no story!#6: Purple Flower.The isolation works because it's the only color. Excellent color and saturation, a virtually perfect lens. Thanks! Star parties or dark sky excursions are another great time to use a camera lens in place of the telescope. This allows for less aggressive camera settings for night photography such as using a lower ISO setting and shorter exposure. On FF I use this lens for both tight portraits and landscape shots. If experience has taught me anything, its that the practical, pain-free equipment that gets the most use under the stars. If you aren't completely set on the 135mm, the 200mm f/2.8L is a fantastic lens and i think its less expensive than the 135mm f/2L. Although this lens feels solid, it is rather light when compared to a telescope. Has a good weight to it. The Samyang 135mm F/2 easily lives up to its hype and should be near the top of your list of purchases if you are new or experienced in the field of astrophotography. This is a fully manual lens, meaning that it does not have autofocus, and you must manually select the f-stop using the aperture ring at the base of the lens. In the past, Ive covered a number of different lenses, from the Sigma 24mm F/1.4 to the Canon EF 300mm F/4L. Focusing a wide open F/2 lens is demanding of the optics, especially on a field of stars in the night sky. Well saturated but neutral. This lens is simply lighter, cheaper & faster (f/2.0 vs f/2.8). http://johncarnessali.com/camera-lens-tests/5109, After reading too many long, and arduous threads pertaining to the new Zeiss 135, I felt compelled to share my perspective on the wonderful Canon 135. What next, an article extolling the virtues of 43mm, or 70mm? This is so annoying that I intend to replace the Canon lens cap with a Tamron cap. Family moments are precious and sometimes you want to capture that time spent with loved ones or friends in better quality than your phone can manage. That is the story.#7: Leaves.That doesn't work. And now important part: This lens can be stopped down if desired effect is not required and no, with 85/1.8 you will never get this effect. Unfortunately it is not manufactured in a multicoated version, and produces prominent internal reflection artifacts on very bright stars. The difference between modern and old telephoto lenses is probably similar to the difference between my APO and an old Jaegers 5in F5. Hey Trevor, great article! I have the Sony SaL 135F1.8 Zeiss Lens and think that is excellent. I just purchased a very lightly used Canon 200mm F2.8L II USM for $620 from a great online dealer and can't wait for an opportunity to try it out with my Astronomik CLS clip on a T4i at a dark site. Due to the weight, at times I didn't move my shooting position and just zoomed to a composition that worked. Don't know what the young man uses as his camera, and if he has tried to keep the noise under control, or even tried to focus on the eyes of the mallard, or the cat (their eyes are not truly in focus). Reg. I seems many people he are confused about the meaning of the word. If you want the best possible image quality, and you must have autofocus, and you don't care if it is a bit heavy (maybe you need it for studio use), buy the Sigma. best lens, blur, sharp-super, no CA, minimal shading. You would be hard pressed to find any other lens on a full frame camera that produces creamier bokeh. To actually learn to compose the photos so that the background complements the image instead of being something that must be blurred away.
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